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Oblique Long Waves on Beach and Induced Longshore Current

Zhang, Jin E. and Wu, Theodore Y. (1999) Oblique Long Waves on Beach and Induced Longshore Current. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 125 (7). pp. 812-826. ISSN 0733-9399. doi:10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9399(1999)125:7(812).

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This study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angles about 45 [degrees] and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves.

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Additional Information:Submitted: 24 September 1998 Published: 01 July 1999 The manuscript for this paper was submitted for review and possible publication on September 24, 1998. This paper is part of the Journal of Engineering Mechanics, Vol. 125, No. 7, July, 1999. ©ASCE. Paper No. 19321. The work of the second writer was supported by National Science Foundation Grant CMS-9503620. The work of the first writer was partially supported by City University of Hong Kong, Contracts 9030664, 7000880, and 7000688. The first writer kindly acknowledges the support from a Powell Fellowship granted by the California Institute of Technology.
Funding AgencyGrant Number
City University of Hong Kong9030664
City University of Hong Kong7000880
City University of Hong Kong7000688
Powell Fellowship (Caltech)UNSPECIFIED
Issue or Number:7
Record Number:CaltechAUTHORS:ZHAjem99
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Official Citation:Oblique Long Waves on Beach and Induced Longshore Current Zhang, J. and Wu, T. Journal of Engineering Mechanics 1999 125:7, 812-826
Usage Policy:No commercial reproduction, distribution, display or performance rights in this work are provided.
ID Code:421
Deposited By: Archive Administrator
Deposited On:17 Jun 2005
Last Modified:08 Nov 2021 19:02

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