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Laboratory study of a stationary oblique plunging breaker for surfboard testing

Hornung, Hans and Killen, Peter (1977) Laboratory study of a stationary oblique plunging breaker for surfboard testing. In: Waves on Water of Variable Depth. Lecture Notes in Physics. No.64. Springer , Berlin, pp. 121-128. ISBN 978-3-540-08253-8.

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Consider a water wave which is obliquely incident on a sloping beach. An observer looking along the wave front from the beach sees the portion of the wave closest to him to be already broken while that far from him is still in deep water and unbroken. In the transition region, the waveface reaches its maximum slope and this is therefore the part most suitable for the surfboard rider, who uses the waveface much like a skier uses a mountain. Because the wave breaks when the water depth reaches a particular value, the path of the break point, and therefore of the surfboard rider, is along the sea bottom contour. His average velocity is that of the intersection of the bottom contour and the wave. He therefore moves faster than the propagation speed of the wave even if his velocity is constant.

Item Type:Book Section
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URLURL TypeDescription ReadCube access
Hornung, Hans0000-0002-4903-8419
Additional Information:© 1977 Springer-Verlag. We would like to thank Dr. Keith Crook of the Department of Geology, ANU for making the flume available for the experiments, and Mr. K.C. Smith for his excellent efforts in the extensive photographic work involved in the project. The photograph of figure 3a was kindly made available by the magazine Surfing World.
Subject Keywords:Wave Height; Free Stream; Breaking Wave; Ocean Wave; Wave Shape
Series Name:Lecture Notes in Physics
Issue or Number:64
Record Number:CaltechAUTHORS:20170801-130806604
Persistent URL:
Usage Policy:No commercial reproduction, distribution, display or performance rights in this work are provided.
ID Code:79691
Deposited By: Tony Diaz
Deposited On:01 Aug 2017 20:15
Last Modified:15 Nov 2021 17:49

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