Adventure Hikes and
Canyoneering in the
Southwest.
Christopher E. Brennen
Dankat Publishing Company
For my grandchildren, Quinn, Troy, Gavin and Payton
Copyright
c
2014 Christopher E. Brennen
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
transmitted, transcribed, stored in a retrieval system, or translated into any
language or computer language, in any form or by any means, without prior
written permission from Christopher Earls Brennen.
ISBN 0-9667409-5-5
Preface
Warn in g
It is important to stress that there is always a significant danger associated with
adventures into the wilderness. Those who wish to follow the adventure hikes
in this book should be fully cognizant of those dangers and take appropriate
precautions. The accounts are primarily intended for experienced hikers who
will exercise informed judgment and caution. The hikes requiring technical ex-
pertise and equipment should never be undertaken without proper training and
qualifications. Even given all this, the dangers should not be minimized. The
accounts are offered with t
he understanding that read
ers will proceed entirely
at their own risk. In “Precautions” we describe some of the precautions that
minimize (but do not eliminate) the dangers and risks.
Acknowledgments
A large part of my enjoyment of these adventures was derived from the
group of young people (and a few oldies) who accompanied me. I am im-
mensely grateful to all of them for their companionship. I especially thank
Troy Sette who was born with the instinct for adventure, Clancy Rowley whose
grace and kindness shines in all he does, Mark Duttweiler with whom hiking
was always a pleasure and Garrett Reisman who taught me to climb and whose
friendship I shall treasure for the rest of my days. I should also acknowledge
Doug Hart who was a great companion on many early hikes. It was my great
good fortune to have hiked with these marvelous young men. And Carl Wass-
gren, Bob Behnken, Sudipto Sur, Tricia Waniewski, Stuart Gibbs, Al Preston,
Robert Uy, Simone Francis, Markus Ehrengruber, Deborah Brennen, Susan
Sette, Eric Siering, Randi Poer, John Perry, Scott Smith, Ira Lewis, Nathan
Wozny, Nathan Schara, Eric Hale, Ken King, Mark Fitzsimmons, Jane Fontana,
Johanna Turner, Bernd Haase, Matt Maxon, Keith Goodfellow and others were
marvelous company and quite tolerant of elderly eccentricities. My thanks also
Alex Kirkaldy who gave us important guidance in the Big Tujunga region and
to my old friends David Wales and Paul Jennings. This book is dedicated to all
these fellow adventurers who so enriched my travels in the wilderness and, in
particular, to Doug, Troy, Garrett, Simone, Clancy, David, Mark, Randi, Scott
and John.
iii
About the Author
Christopher Earls Brennen was born in Belfast, Northern Ireland and em-
igrated to California in 1969. He has lived and worked in the southwestern
United States for over forty years and has spent many great days exploring the
marvelous scenic beauty of that corner of the world. In this book he tells of
some of the special places that he has explored beyond the ends of the trails, in
the canyons and on the summits of the American Southwest.
iv
Contents
Preface
iii
1 PRELIMINARIES
1
1.1 Introduction.............................. 1
1.1.1 Thegenesisofadventurehikes ............... 1
1.1.2 Theadventurehikes ..................... 1
1.1.3 Thechanginglandscape ................... 3
1.2 Precautions .............................. 3
1.2.1 ImportantPrecautions.................... 3
1.2.2 Fires.............................. 4
1.2.3 FlashFloods ......................... 4
1.2.4 PoisonOak .......................... 5
1.2.5 Wildlife ............................ 5
1.2.6 SnakesandInsects ...................... 6
1.3 Navigation............................... 7
1.3.1 Introduction ......................... 7
1.3.2 Maps ............................. 7
1.3.3 Use-Trails........................... 7
1.3.4 AltimetersandGPSUnits.................. 7
1.3.5 Retracingyoursteps ..................... 8
1.3.6 Cross-countryhiking..................... 9
1.4 EquipmentandProvisions...................... 9
1.4.1 Introduction ......................... 9
1.4.2 Clothing............................ 9
1.4.3 Backpack ........................... 11
1.4.4 Essentialandemergencyequipment ............ 11
1.4.5 OtherUsefulEquipment................... 13
1.5 AmericanCanyoneeringAssociationRatings............ 13
2ARIZONA
17
2.1 HavasuCanyon............................ 18
2.2 GrandCanyon ............................ 26
2.3 WestForkofOakCreek ....................... 33
2.4 JamesCanyonandPumphouseWash................ 40
v
2.5 CourthouseRock........................... 45
2.6 FlatironPlus ............................. 51
2.7 FishCreekCanyon.......................... 56
2.8 WeaversNeedle............................ 61
2.9 SalomeJug .............................. 68
2.10 Devil’s Canyon . . . . . .
...................... 73
2.11CibecueCreek ............................ 79
2.12CrystalCanyon............................ 85
3SOUTHEASTUTAH
91
3.1 MaidenwaterCanyon......................... 93
3.2 BlarneyCanyon............................ 98
3.3 LeprechaunCanyon .........................102
3.4 BlackHoleofWhiteCanyon ....................108
3.5 GravelCanyon ............................113
3.6 CheeseboxCanyon ..........................119
3.7 FryCanyon ..............................125
3.8 GrandGulch .............................130
4 ESCALANTE
135
4.1 EgyptSlots ..............................136
4.2 NeonCanyon .............................142
5 ZION NATIONAL PARK
149
5.1 ZionNarrows .............................150
5.2 AngelsLanding............................159
5.3 Orderville Canyon . . . .
......................162
5.4 MysteryCanyon ...........................168
5.5 BehuninCanyon ...........................174
5.6 PineCreek ..............................180
5.7 KeyholeCanyon ...........................184
5.8 TheSubway..............................187
5.9 SouthForkofTaylorCreek .....................195
5.10EnglesteadHollow ..........................199
5.11SpryCanyon .............................206
5.12MiseryCanyon ............................211
5.13BirchHollow .............................217
6 ARIZONA STRIP
223
6.1 BuckskinGulch............................224
6.2 CoyoteButtes/TheWave ......................234
6.3 Toroweap/LavaFalls.........................239
6.4 WaterCanyon.............................246
6.5 YankeeDoodleCanyon........................251
vi
7 NEVADA
255
7.1 BridgeMountain ...........................257
7.2 HiddenFallsCanyon.........................262
7.3 IceboxCanyon ............................266
7.4 Icecube Canyon/The Maze . . .
..................272
7.5 WheelerPeak.............................279
8 DEATH VALLEY
283
8.1 Willow Creek . . . .
.........................284
8.2 CoffinCanyon.............................290
8.3 CharonCanyon............................297
8.4 StyxCanyon .............................304
8.5 CerberusCanyon...........................310
8.6 HadesCanyon.............................316
8.7 BadCanyon..............................322
8.8 NaturalBridgeCanyon .......................329
8.9 KeaneCanyon ............................334
8.10MonarchCanyon ...........................340
8.11Grotto/MosaicCanyons .......................345
8.12TelescopePeak ............................352
8.13DarwinFalls .............................358
8.14RainbowCanyonHike ........................362
9 YOSEMITE
369
9.1 HalfDome...............................371
9.2 IndianCanyon ............................382
9.3 TenayaCanyonHike .........................388
9.4 CathedralPeak............................397
9.5 EichornPinnacle ...........................405
10 SIERRA NEVADA
411
10.1MountWhitney............................412
10.2NorthForkofKingsRiver......................420
10.3TheNeedles..............................426
10.4SevenTeacups ............................429
11 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
435
11.1RoseValleyFalls ...........................436
11.2TarCreek ...............................440
11.3SespeGorge..............................447
11.4MalibuCanyon ............................456
11.5ZumaCanyon.............................461
11.6BigFalls................................466
11.7VivianCreek .............................471
11.8TahquitzRock ............................475
11.9KelsoDunes..............................479
vii
11.10AftonSlot...............................484
11.11WonderlandofRocks.........................487
11.12DeepCanyon .............................492
11.13CougarCanyon............................498
11.14CarrizoGorge.............................506
11.15PicachoPeak .............................514
12 CHANNEL ISLANDS
521
12.1PelicanBay,SantaCruz.......................524
12.2PointBennett,SanMiguel......................528
12.3HarrisPoint,SanMiguel.......................533
12.4CardwellPoint,SanMiguel .....................536
Bibliography
539
viii
Chapter 1
PRELIMINARIES
1.1 Introduction
1.1.1 The genesis of adventure hikes
In my early years of hiking, I followed almost all of the 100 hikes in the San
Gabriel mountains of California that John Robinson describes in his classic
“Trails of the Angeles”. Later, seeking to explore beyond the established trails, I
and a group of students at the California Institute of Technology began a series of
explorations that we termed “adventure hikes”. These revealed such marvelous
hidden treasures off the beaten paths of the San Gabriels (and surrounding
mountains) that it seemed appropriate to record these adventures for those who
might be inclined to follow in our footsteps. That was the genesis of my first
book entitled “Adventure Hikes and Canyoneering in the San Gabriels”. In later
years our explorations and adventures spread to some of the other magnificent
parks of the American Southwest. In this second volume I describe a series of
marvelous adventure hikes off the maintained trails in that region.
1.1.2 The adventure hikes
The adventure hikes described are distributed across the southwestern United
States. For convenience the hike descriptions are divided into the eleven, some-
what arbitrarily defined regions shown in the first map. Each chapter includes
the adventure hikes for one of these regions. In the descriptions of the hikes, I
have tried to give as much useful information as possible without spoiling the
sense of adventure. When I explored them for the first time I had little or no
knowledge of what to expect. In the early years, this led to some unexpected ad-
ventures such as spending an unplanned night in the canyon of the East Fork of
the San Gabriel River. Later, I became more circumspect and often conducted
preliminary exploratory hikes before attempting the complete version described
1
here. Thus, for example, I ventured into some of the canyons from both above
and below before attempting to travel all the way through.
In each case, I have provided a map on which I have marked prominent
features, obstacles or navigational aids. I have also included some photographs
so that the reader can gauge his or her own willingness to tackle some of the
challenges described herein. Estimates of the times required for the hikes are
also provided though the actual time required will vary considerably depending
on the weather, stream conditions and personal agility and fitness. Some readers
may be able to go significantly faster than indicated here. Groups larger than
three or four will most likely be slower especially when rappeling.
An estimate of the distance covered is also provided though this is much
less useful than the elapsed time when discussing adventure hikes since average
speeds vary greatly with the terrain. Another guide to the difficulty is the listed
elevation gain that, unless otherwise specified, is the sum of all the major ascents
experienced on the hike. Specific difficulties (and the equipment needed to
overcome them) are also listed for reference at the beginning of each description.
The eleven regions covered in the chapters that follow (except for the
Channel Islands).
2
1.1.3 The changing landscape
Mountains, rivers and canyons are constantly changing and any guide like this
runs the risk that it is out of date before it is written. The canyons, in particular,
can sometimes be unrecognizable after a large winter storm. The reader should
remember this when using the directions and descriptions herein. Logs that
once allowed an easy descent may vanish during the winter. Landslides can
obliterate significant obstacles or create new ones.
1.2 Precautions
1.2.1 Important Precautions
We begin by detailing some basic precautions that should always be taken when
hiking in the wilderness. When you venture off-trail these become even more
important and there are additional factors that need to be considered.
First and foremost the hiker should know his or her limits and only graduate
slowly from the regular, maintained trails, to the unmaintained trails and then
to more remote areas.
Second, it is very important not to travel alone. On any hike, it is valuable
to have companions who can seek help should you become ill or have an accident
such as an injury to a leg. On an adventure hike, as simple and common an
accident as a sprained ankle could be life-threatening if you were alone. There-
fore, you should find some companions with similar interests and be prepared
to adjust your itinerary to satisfy the group interests and objectives. The ideal
is probably a group of three or four people.
A related and essential precaution is to leave a written description of your
proposed route with a family member or friend who will be in a position to seek
help if you or your party fail to return. You should also leave clear instructions
with that family member or friend as to the steps they should take. I recommend
the following instruction: “Call the police or sheriff’s department if you do not
hear from me by 9pm on the day you expect me”. A third precaution in the
same category is to carry a cellular telephone. However, the hiker should be
aware that cellular telephones require line-of-sight for operation. Thus, they
will often work on peaks and ridges but they will not work in canyons.
On an adventure hike, it is easier than one might imagine for an individual
to become separated from the group. Therefore, it is important for the group
to always remain “connected”. For example, when struggling through brush in
an extended single file every member needs to maintain regular contact both
with those ahead and those behind. An important item in any emergency kit is
a whistle; everyone should carry one on a necklace. Be sure that all members of
the group know the universal distress signal: three sharp blasts on the whistle
(or three short repetitions of any kind of signal). Note that it is part of the
universal creed that every hiker has an obligation to respond to such a signal of
distress.
3
The third category of precaution is to become accustomed and knowledge-
able about navigating your way in the wilderness. In the next chapter a brief
summary of navigation is given. For the present, it is valuable to emphasize the
importance of knowing where you are. In the wilderness, it is always important
to plan ahead and, to do so, you must know your location relative to various
destinations. You must always know the location of the next source of water.
You must always have some estimate of the distance to your destination and
whether you can reach it before nightfall. It is an essential safety precaution
to be able to halt at least one hour before sunset so that proper preparations
can be made for the night. This is especially critical when you underestimate
time and distance and have to spend an unplanned night in the wilderness. If
you are unwise enough to press on in the darkness you not only risk injury but
you also reduce substantially your opportunity to prepare shelter and warmth
for the night. I dwell on this because, on the one occasion when this happened
to me, I found it very difficult psychologically to resign myself to a night in the
mountains and to stop in time to gather firewood and make a fire and a bed
for the night. In the wilderness it is often difficult to make accurate a priori
estimates of travel time since that depe
nds so much on the terrain. Therefore,
it is essential to be flexible and realistic and continuously adjust your plan.
The fourth set of precautions concerns proper safety equipment; we deal
with this later in this chapter.
1.2.2 Fires
In many wilderness areas, open fires are not permitted except in specifically
designated fire places in campgrounds and, even then, a fire permit is often
required. On overnight hikes, I strongly suggest a small, portable hiking stove
for cooking and, if you must have a fire, use only dead wood, keep it small and
confined to a safe fire pit, preferably an existing one.
If you are trapped unexpectedly overnight in the mountains and you feel
you have no alternative but to light a fire in order to maintain warmth then you
must take every possible precaution. Learn how to choose a safe location and
how to construct a safe fire pit. Keep the fire small and under control at all
times. Never leave the fire unattended. When leaving the campsite, douse the
fire with water to ensure that it is completely extinguished and then dismantle
the fireplace so that as little remains as possible.
1.2.3 Flash Floods
When hiking during or after rainfall you should be alert to the danger from
flash floods, especially when traveling in one of the larger canyons or narrower
gorges. If the level of the stream begins to rise quickly, take immediate refuge
at a higher elevation. Perhaps the most dangerous phenomenon is a flash flood
that involves a “bore” or sudden wave traveling down the canyon. These flash
floods often produce a characteristic rumbling or roaring noise (often likened to
a train) and you should take especially rapid action if you detect such a noise.
4
Even in the steepest sided canyons there are often places where it is possible
to climb some distance above the level of the stream. About 30ft of elevation
should be sufficient for safety in just about all of these situations. But it is best
to avoid these kinds of hikes during rain or for several days thereafter.
1.2.4 Poison Oak
Many people are susceptible to poison oak and it is therefore wise to learn to
recognize this low (3-4ft high) sparse, weed-like plant whose leaves are shaped
like those of an oak tree. In the summer and fall, the leaves often turn multi-
colored, red and green with some yellow. Some individuals are fortunate to be
immune from poison oak and can walk through these plants without any fear of
the dreaded rash and itch appearing a couple of days later. Others have a mild
reaction and merely have to avoid direct contact, for example, by wearing long
pants. A third group seem to suffer severely even from second-hand contact
such as that acquired by rubbing a hand over clothing that has contacted the
plant. During adventure hikes at lower elevations, it is very hard to avoid all
contact with poison oak. For those that are susceptible it is wise to cover legs,
arms and hands as completely as possible and to be very alert to the presence
of poison oak. Alternatively it is now possible to purchase creams that you can
apply to exposed skin and that provide a measure of protection against poison
oak. It is always wise to shower thoroughly after returning from an adventure
hike and this can also help after exposure to the plant.
1.2.5 Wildlife
One of the glories of the southwestern wilderness is the fact that so much wildlife
still survives. There are deer, bears, cougars, bighorn sheep, coyotes, bobcats
and many other smaller animals. I hope that you are fortunate enough to catch
a glimpse of one or more of these marvelous creatures. Provided you are sensible,
the risks are essentially negligible.
Deer are plentiful and, because of their camouflage, you often hear them
before you see them. As elsewhere, it is most likely that you will catch a
glimpse of them at dawn or at dusk.
The populations of bear and cougar are increasing in many places. Cougars
tend to avoid all human contact and are very rarely seen. In all my years of
exploration I have never been fortunate enough to see a cougar. Thus, the
danger from cougars is extremely remote. Black bears are more frequently
seen though I have only had the privilege on one occasion. They may present
a marginally larger hazard though still a miniscule one. Probably the only
significant danger might occur if you placed yourself between a mother and her
cubs.
For those who might have read of confrontations between humans and bears
in the distant past in the southwest, we should note that the original bears in
some of the wilderness of California were California grizzlies, an extinct species
closely related to the grizzly bears of the northwestern states. The last grizzly
5
in the San Gabriels of California was shot in 1898. However, smaller black bears
were imported by men in the early part of the century and have now found their
place in the biological niche originally occupied by the grizzlies. Black bears are
much less dangerous than grizzlies and so the confrontations of the distant past
would not occur today.
If you are confronted by a bear or cougar, you should stand up, wave your
arms, shout and scream. A walking stick is valuable not only to strengthen your
own resolve but also for defensive action in the extremely remote chance of an
attack by the animal. Do not move forward because such a move might trigger
a defensive reaction. Do not turn your back or run away because cougars have a
built-in urge to attack a fleeing prey. Rather you should move slowly backward
while continuing to make very aggressive motions and noise.
Bighorn sheep can be found in a number of remote places in the southwest.
For example, they roam the slopes of Mount Baldy near Los Angeles.
1.2.6 Snakes and Insects
Perhaps the most significant danger from wildlife is the possibility of a rat-
tlesnake bite though this is also a rare event. On the few occasions on which
I have encountered rattlesnakes I have seen them before they saw me. It is
probably sufficient to recognize the rattle noise of these snakes and to step away
from the sound when you hear it. If you are unfortunate to be bitten be sure
to follow the standard instructions. Try to immobilize the area and get to help
as soon as possible. Only if you are a long distance from help (more than four
hours) should you resort to drastic measures such as cutting open the area of
the bite. It is wise to carry a snake-bite kit just in case and these always come
with explicit instructions. Finally, you should note that there are also many
harmless varieties of snakes in the southwest, including some whose patterns
are similar to those of a rattlesnake. The latter is most readily recognized by
its rattle and diamond-shaped head.
As to insect bites, it may be important for any hiker to ensure that they
are not allergic to any insects, for example bees or mosquitoes, and to carry
appropriate medication in case of a problem. Even if you are not allergic to
wasps, bees or yellow jackets, these can pose a danger comparable to that of
rattlesnakes. The author once inadvertently stepped on a wasp nest and was
stung about 20 times before he could jump into and immerse himself in a pool of
the nearby stream. The subsequent reaction of the body that included dizziness,
sharp pains across the forehead and, later, a sore throat were alarming and
debilitating. They could have caused a serious problem for someone with a less
robust immune system. Some hikers I know carry medication in a hypodermic
syringe for such emergencies.
If you have been bushwhacking (or even if you have not) it is wise to check
for ticks after returning home. Provided you detect them early and before they
have had time to burrow in, ticks are easy to remove. If one has buried its head
in your flesh it is probably wise to have a nurse or doctor remove it, otherwise
it may itch for a couple of weeks.
6
1.3 Navigation
1.3.1 Introduction
Navigation is more important when one ventures off the beaten track. On
the maintained trails it is usually sufficient to carry several trail maps and to
stop regularly to try to identify your location. On adventure hikes, navigation
becomes much more important and significantly harder.
1.3.2 Maps
The first essential equipment in locating yourself and the trails is a collection
of trail maps that should be studied in detail before setting out. Simplified
or shaded maps are of little or no value on adventure hikes. In the National
Parks it is usually possible to purchase a detailed topographical map (“topo”
map) on which the maintained trails have been imposed. Alternatively, you
should obtain 7.5 minute series US Geological Survey maps (“topo” maps) for
the area(s) covering your hike. One problem with the USGS topological maps is
that the information on the trails marked on the maps may be very out of date.
Many of the trails that are marked have long vanished, either because they were
washed away or because they have become completely overgrown. Other, newer
trails may not be marked.
Whichever type of topographical map you obtain, it is valuable to practice
reading the topology (the mountains, canyons and other identifying features)
from these maps as you hike along. Initially, it is not easy to look at a topo-
graphical map and to relate it to the scenery around you. But, with a little
practice, this becomes second nature and greatly aids in your navigation, to say
nothing of your peace of mind. You should also equip yourself with a compass
that will allow you to adjust the map to the same orientation as your surround-
ings. It is important to make a habit of stopping at high points on your hike
to consult your maps and the topology of your surroundings. Try to fix the
principal features and landmarks in your mind for later reference.
1.3.3 Use-Trails
The adventure hiker will come to learn that many of the negotiable canyons
contain “use-trails” beaten down by some combination of animals and humans.
These are often useful, particularly when you must find a way around a waterfall
or other obstruction. Moreover, the absence of a use-trail is usually a sign that
a major obstacle lies ahead.
1.3.4 Altimeters and GPS Units
Another useful navigation device is an altimeter watch that you can now pur-
chase for about $80.00. If this is properly adjusted to the known elevation at
your starting point, it can tell you your altitude to within about 40ft. Not
7
only is this valuable for its own sake, but, in combination with a topographical
map, it can greatly help you locate your position. By identifying the contour
corresponding to your known altitude and following it on the topo map, you
can often factor in other observations (such as a compass bearing to a nearby
peak or knowledge that you are in a particular canyon) to closely identify your
position. Of course, GPS positioning units can now be purchased for less than
$150.00 and are highly recommended for those who are not confident in using
the more primitive methods. In combination with a topographical map, a GPS
unit can locate your position to within a few tens of feet. The only circum-
stance in which the GPS unit might fail to operate is in a deep canyon where
line-of-sight with one or more of the satellites can be lost.
1.3.5 Retracing your steps
Another simple rule of navigation that is often overlooked by the novice hiker
is the ability to retrace your steps. One of the essential and enjoyable elements
of adventure hiking is the challenge of venturing into the unknown. But a
necessary corollary is the chance that you might encounter an obstacle that you
cannot surmount. Then, it may be necessary to retrace your steps though you
had not initially planned to do so. You might also need to retrace your steps in
the event of an accident. Therefore, it is a basic safety measure to ensure that
you can do this without running the risk of taking a wrong turn and getting
lost.
There are several simple steps that you should always take to minimize this
danger. First, when traveling down a canyon you can easily pass the mouth of
an adjoining canyon without noticing it. The result can be that, when retracing
your steps on the way up the canyon, you may not be able to decide which canyon
to follow. Therefore, take note of any such junctions while hiking downstream.
In particular, when you pass such a junction, look back and fix the right path
in your mind. If you are in any doubt mark the entrance to the correct canyon
with a “duck”. For those unaware of this term, “ducks” are readily-recognizable
human-generated markers created from naturally occurring materials. Most
frequently they take the form of a prominently displayed pile of two, three or
more rocks sitting unnaturally on top of one another. A series of ducks spaced
20-50yds apart is often used to mark a trail that would otherwise be difficult or
impossible to follow. Alternatively, as suggested here, you can use occasional
ducks to mark your trail. Other variations can include a row of rocks and/or
logs placed to make an arrow. Such a signal should be used to mark the place
where you should leave a trail or a canyon on the return journey. Markers
that should not be used are any that may damage plants or animals; do not,
therefore, carve marks on trees or break limbs from trees and bushes in order
to mark the way; even excessively large ducks should be avoided. In summary,
visualize your return by looking backwards fairly frequently and leave markers
wherever necessary to remind you of the correct route.
8
1.3.6 Cross-country hiking
There are several other factors that should be considered when choosing a route
through the wilderness. It is clear that, in a rugged and mountainous area, the
canyons and ridges form the most natural cross-country routes and, in general,
the larger canyons are less brushy and usually allow easier travel except in the
more narrow sections. Often one must find a route from a canyon to a ridge or
vice-versa. Then, the steep “transverse” ridges or gullies form the most natural
routes with which to accomplish such a transition. Again, the best choice is
usually the largest gully you can identify and follow. Though you may have to
climb over many boulders and waterfalls you are usually saved from the need
to plough through bushes. Often such lateral gullies will have the largest cliffs
or waterfalls near where they join the main canyon and you should be prepared
for this possibility.
Another factor to keep in mind when selecting a route is that the vegetation
of the north-facing slopes in the southwest is quite different from that of the
south-facing slopes. The former usually consist of oak forest or, at higher ele-
vations, pine forest. These trees coat the ground with an accumulation of soil
and leaves that is much easier to travel through than the harsh rock cover under
the bushes, yucca plants and scrub of the south-facing slopes. This difference
is valuable to remember in plotting a cross-country route. Moreover, the south-
facing slopes are more frequently exposed to fire and for this and other reasons
tend to be more unstable.
1.4 Equipment and Provisions
1.4.1 Introduction
Being properly clothed, equipped and provisioned can mean all the difference
between an exciting wilderness experience and a miserable ordeal. This chapter
is intended to give some guidelines on these issues though each person will soon
discover their own particular preferences as their experience broadens.
1.4.2 Clothing
Choice of clothing will vary with the weather, the time of year and personal
tastes. As a general rule it is better to rely on a number of layers for warmth
rather than single thick and bulky garments. Of course, in more severe climates,
mountaineers can get very technical in choosing these layers. For example, they
select one for next the skin, one or more for heat insulation, one for external
protection and one for rain. If you wish to invest in these more expensive and
coherent systems by all means do so. However, in the San Gabriels it is almost
always adequate to choose more inexpensive layers. Thus I use tee shirt and
underpants, a thicker upper layer for warmth (usually this is shed once I warm
up and I end up carrying it in my pack) and a pair of shorts. Pants, whether
long or short, should be roomy enough so that climbing movements are not
9
impaired. While cotton garments may suffice on a hot summer day, it may be
wise to invest in “wicking” garments made of modern synthetic materials such
as polyester and a warm polartec jacket. These not only dry much faster than
cotton but they will also keep in the warmth even when wet. In addition I carry
rain gear in the form of lightweight Goretex pants and jacket. This rain gear
can also serve as emergency clothing should you encounter an unexpected drop
in the temperature or have to spend the night in the mountains.
Some of the above choices need further comment in the context of adven-
ture hiking. First, if you are susceptible to poison oak, you should recognize
that it is not easy to completely avoid coming in contact with this plant at
some point during adventure hiking. Thus you may be better off wearing long
pants and long-sleeve shirts. Second, one’s outer clothing almost always takes
a beating during adventure hikes, whether from pushing through undergrowth,
sliding down loose scree or climbing over rocks. Consequently you should avoid
expensive outer garments.
Several other items of clothing are almost essential for adventure hiking.
First, for protection from the sun you should always wear a hat, preferably one
with a brim that protects the eyes, face and neck from the strong sun in the
San Gabriels. The hat, along with sunscreen and lip balm, becomes even more
important at higher elevations and triply important if you are hiking through the
snow. In this last case, good sunglasses are also essential for protection against
snow blindness. Some people can also suffer sun blindness in the bright desert;
for them, a hat and sunglasses are essential at all times in the San Gabriels.
For different but equally obvious reasons, a good pair of leather garden-
ing gloves (preferably quite tight fitting) is essential for hand protection when
bouldering, climbing steep earth slopes or pushing through undergrowth. I use
leather rather than cloth gloves for protection against the many prickly plants
in the San Gabriels. Leather gloves also provide good friction when clambering
over rocks. Some even choose to use gloves while rope climbing or rappeling
though this is not recommended.
Another essential purchase is a good pair of hiking boots with lug soles. I
have two pairs. One pair is more flexible but not waterproof. The other is
Goretex-lined but not so comfortable. I like the former when the hike involves a
lot of climbing and/or wading and the latter for hiking in wet weather or in the
snow. Under either pair, I utilize two layers of socks. Next to my skin, I wear
a thin pair of polypropylene socks. These minimize the chafing or blistering of
the skin. Outside these I wear a thick pair of woolen or polartec socks. This
equipment is particularly crucial because comfort for your feet is essential to
the enjoyment of hiking.
In addition, many of the canyon bottom hikes will require you to wade in the
river and, for these outings, I recommend taking a spare pair of socks to change
into when the wading is done. For such occasions, I do not use the waterproof
boots; rather I wear an old pair that drain and dry more quickly. While you
may choose to take an old pair of sneakers in order to keep your hiking boots
dry, I do not recommend this because sneakers slip too easily on the rock. It is
better to wade in your boots. Besides, in the warm climate of the San Gabriels
10
and with the warmth generated by hiking, your feet can dry out surprisingly
quickly.
For wading (or swimming) through deep pools it is almost essential to bring
along a “dry” bag in which to stow your entire pack, or at the very least your
valuables. While a large plastic trash can liner might serve, it is also easily
ripped. You can purchase very tough and light waterproof bags called “dry
bags” in an outdoors store that caters to rafting and kayaking. When swimming,
it is also convenient to employ the dry bag as a flotation device. I also suggest
you take along a small towel (it has many uses) and spare tee shirt and shorts.
Of course, additional clothing and equipment may be needed if you intend
to hike in the snow. Then crampons and an ice axe become essential. However,
the hikes described herein are all intended to be tackled in good weather.
1.4.3 Backpack
A sturdy day backpack in which to carry all your equipment is clearly essential.
On adventure hikes, a backpack can take quite a bit of abuse as you plough
through the bush, slide down slopes, haul the pack up steep slopes by rope or
wade through deep pools. Consequently a strong and secure day pack is a must.
Mine is roomy, has strong zips, contains two side pockets for water bottles and
will float for a brief time without the contents getting wet. For really wet hikes,
one can now purchase moderately priced waterproof backpacks that are very
convenient.
It is a vital safety measure to keep the contents of your pack dry at all times.
Therefore, within your backpack, it is a very good idea to store items or groups
of items in sealable plastic bags. This not only provides protection against rain
or river dunkings but also helps to keep your stuff organized. Moreover, an
essential part of any plan to negotiate a deep pool, is to arrange safe passage for
the packs. Many people get careless and allow their safety to be compromised
by not ensuring dry passage for their packs. One method is to put your pack in
a large, waterproof bag as described above.
On overnight hikes, it may be convenient to use a larger backpack. Then,
internal frame packs are preferable to the external frame variety that can be
very awkward to manage during climbing or scrambling for they tend to hang
up more often on rocks and vegetation. The best idea is to travel as light as
possible. Indeed, a large day pack with a strap-on sleeping bag maybe be better
than either an internal or external frame pack for the overnighters described
herein.
1.4.4 Essential and emergency equipment
The following is a list of the essential and emergency equipment that I carry
with me in addition to the clothing described above:
•
Maps. Fold these so that the area you will be consulting is on the outside
and then install them in separate, sealed plastic bags so that they can
11
be read without removing them. This not only protects the map against
wear but is essential in the rain.
•
A compass and binoculars. While the latter may not be essential, I have
found a small, lightweight pair of binoculars to be very valuable in helping
to identify distant features or discerning smaller objects like rappeling
anchors.
•
Apocketknife.
•
A small, quality flashlight and a set of spare batteries. The head lamp
variety is particularly convenient.
•
A space blanket.
•
Two butane lighters and some matches. Warmth is an important key
to survival and the lighters, matches and space blanket are to preserve
warmth. You should learn how to light a fire in the wilderness (see pre-
ceding section).
•
In addition I carry the lightweight waterproof pants and jacket mentioned
earlier not only for use in the event of rain but also as layers for additional
warmth.
•
Several packages of paper tissues. Please ensure that you bury your waste
in a hole at least six inches deep and as far from a stream or creek bed as
possible.
•
An ace bandage (or athletic tape), several bandaids, neosporin ointment
for bites or stings and ibuprofin for pain and muscle relaxant.
•
A snake-bite kit with instructions.
•
A leather thong for multiple uses including as a tourniquet.
•
Sunscreen, lip balm and poison oak protection cream. These I carry in
several clear plastic bags with airtight seals.
•
Water and Food. It is essential to carry two or more quart-sized water
bottles with good quality screw tops so that they do not leak after just
a few uses. Despite the weight, I always start out with two full bottles,
usually one filled with a quality sports drink and the other filled with
plain water. On longer hikes, I notice a significant difference when I use
the sports drink rather than plain water and so I recommend it strongly.
In addition, I strongly recommend that you carry a light-weight water
filter pump and use this rather than water treatment chemicals. The filter
pumps now available at camping stores are very effective; in all my years
of hiking I have never experienced any problems when I used a filter pump.
Besides, the water in the San Gabriels is excellent and worth savoring.
12
To the beginner, these provisions for drinking may seem excessive. But the
experienced hiker knows just how dangerous dehydration and/or hypothermia
can be and knows that all of these precautions are essential. Conversely, food is
not necessary as an emergency item. I always take a lunch and a snack but little
more. You could survive for weeks on the roots and berries of the San Gabriels
if it became necessary. Incidentally, it is not a bad idea to learn of some of the
edible plants.
1.4.5 Other Useful Equipment
In addition to the above, I carry a selection of other items that depend on the
circumstances I expect to encounter:
Especially as you get older, a good hiking stick can be useful on many ad-
venture hikes. It is particularly valuable as an aid in the many stream crossings
that are a part of many of the adventure hikes described herein. It can also be
useful in dealing with brush, as an aid in climbing or for dealing with snakes or
other hazards.
Even for those without any formal training in rock climbing, I recommend
purchasing some rudimentary climbing gear in order to fabricate some simple
protection when climbing in places where a slip could mean a serious accident.
Rather than a rope, I recommend for this purpose the 1in wide tubular webbing
that you can buy in most sports shops. At about 30c per foot it is quite
inexpensive and can therefore be left behind if necessary. Webbing is easier to
grip than a rope and can be adapted for many purposes. I have several lengths
(10ft, 30ft and 60ft) and I choose whichever piece seems most useful for a given
hike. In addition, carabiners are useful and I carry several of these in my pack.
Some of the hikes described herein require both the training and equipment
to allow you to rappel down cliffs of various heights, from 12ft upwards. You
should not attempt these particular hikes unless you have obtained such training.
However, it is fairly simple to learn to rappel and not as frightening as you might
imagine. I learned some simple rock craft at the age of 53 and enjoyed it much
more than I had imagined I would. The necessary equipment consists of a
good quality climbing rope (at least 150ft and preferably 200ft long), a climbing
harness, a rappeling device (ATC or figure eight design).
1.5 American Canyoneering Association Ratings
Since most of the adventures described in this collection involve canyoneer-
ing and since it is valuable to provide as much information as possible on the
technical difficulty of each adventure, an American Canyoneering Association
(ACA) Rating is provided with each account. A description of these ratings
can be found at the American Canyoneering Association website, specifically at
the ACA Ratings System webpage or in Tom Jones’ Canyoneering site under
Ratings.
A rating begins with a number from 1 to 4 signifying the following:
13
1. Canyon Hiking
. Non-technical; no rope required. May involve some easy
scrambling requiring the occasional use of hands for balance and support.
2. Basic Canyoneering
. Scrambling, easy vertical or near vertical climb-
ing and/or down-climbing requiring frequent use of hands. Rope recom-
mended for hand lines, belays, lowering packs and possible emergency use.
Exit and/or retreat possible without ascending fixed ropes.
3. Intermediate Canyoneering
. Exposed technical climbing. Down-climbing
could be difficult and dangerous; most people will rappel instead. Rope
required for belays and single-pitch rappels. Obvious natural or fixed
anchors. Retreat up canyon will require ascending fixed ropes. Basic pot-
hole escape techniques (i.e. partner assist, counter-weights) may also be
required.
4. Advanced Canyoneering
. Route may involve any combination of the
following: 1) difficult and exposed free climbing and/or down-climbing, 2)
climbing using direct aid, 3) multi-pitch rappels, 4) complex rope work
(i.e. guided rappels, deviations, rebelays), 5) obscure or indistinct natural
anchors, 6) advanced problem-solving and anchor-building skills.
This is followed by a letter indicating how wet the hike may be:
A.
Normally dry or very little water. Dry falls. Water, if present, can be
avoided and/or is very shallow. Shoes may get wet, but no wetsuit or
drysuit required.
B.
Normally has water with no current or light current. Still pools. Falls
normally dry or running at a trickle. Expect to do some deep wading
and/or swimming. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water
and air temperatures..
C.
Normally has water with strong current. Waterfalls. Expect to do some
deep wading and/or swimming in current. Wetsuit or drysuit may be
required depending on water and air temperatures.
Note that the water level in any canyon can fluctuate greatly from year-to-year,
season-to-season, even day-to-day. If, upon arrival at a canyon, you discover the
water volume/current is greater than indicated by the rating, descent will be
more difficult. It will be necessary to reevaluate your decision to attempt the
descent.
The third symbol, either the letter R or X, is optional and is used to designate
unusual risks:
R.
Risky. One or more extraordinary risk factors exist that could complicate
the descent. Solid technical skills and sound judgment critical. Not rec-
ommended for beginners.
14
X.
Extreme. Multiple risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Er-
rors in technique or judgment will likely result in serious injury or death.
Descent should only be attempted by expert canyoneers.
Note that the presence of an R or an X in a rating suggests that the canyon will
involve higher than average risk. The absence of an R or an X does not suggest
that there will be no risk. All canyoneering involves risk. Risk factors include
number and frequency of rappels, length of rappels (single- or double-rope) and
exposure, anchor availability, anchor quality, route finding, obstacles, problem-
solving, terrain encountered between technical sections, flash flood potential,
availability of exits and high gro
und, water temperature, prolonged immersion,
and difficulty of evacuation or rescue.
The last alphanumeric symbol is a Roman numeral indicating the time duration
of the hike:
I.
Short. Normally requires only a couple of hours.
II.
Normally requires a half day.
III.
Normally requires most of a day.
IV.
Expected to take one long, full day. Get an early start. Bring a head lamp.
Plan for possible bivy.
V.
Expected to take an average one and a half days.
VI.
Expected to take two or more days.
Note that time estimates are based on average group of 6 people or less. Larger
groups and less experienced groups will take longer. An accurate self-assessment
of your abilities will be important. For some users, it may be adequate to refer
to time in terms of half day, full day or multi-day. Others may prefer a more
specific estimate and choose to use the Roman Numeral Grade system common
in traditional multi-pitch rock climbing.
Finally, I have followed the example of Tom Jones and added an expression of
my own enjoyment of each of the hikes by attaching one, two or three stars:
***
A classic. Really good.
**
Pretty good, well worth doing.
*
Has redeeming qualities.
Of course, there were many canyons that we dropped into with high hopes only
to find little of interest to canyoneers. These are not included in this book.
15
16
Chapter 2
ARIZONA
This selection of adventure hikes in Arizona includes a cross-section of the va-
riety of off-trail (and a few on-trail) experiences that can be enjoyed in this
spectacular state. Two of the three descents to the Colorado River within the
Grand Canyon are included (the third, the descent from Toroweap to Lava Falls,
can be found in the chapter on the Arizona Strip). But this chapter also in-
cludes the ascent of two of Arizona’s most dramatic monoliths, Weaver’s Needle
in the Superstitions and Courthouse Rock in the Eagletails. There are also sev-
eral lovely, modest canyoneering descents including the famed Salome Jug. For
further details and other adventures the reader is referred to Williams (2005)
and Warren (1996).
Arizona region.
17
2.1 Havasu Canyon
Characteristics
•
Hiking time: 3 days
•
Estimated hiking distance: 22 to 34 miles
•
Elevation gain: 2710 to 3450 feet
•
Map: Grand Canyon Hiking Map
•
Difficulties: Heat in the summer
•
Special equipment: Water filter
•
ACA Rating: 1A VI
One of the most interesting and spectacular adventure hikes in the Grand
Canyon is the classic descent through the Havasupai Indian Reservation to the
tribal village of Supai and the beautiful blue-green river and waterfalls beyond.
The hike begins where the road ends, at a parking area on the rim of the canyon
called Hualapai Hilltop. From there the hike descends 8mi to the village; the first
stage is a steep, switch backing descent into the bottom of Hualapai Canyon,
followed by a dry and dusty but more gentle descent along the Hualapai Canyon
wash. Just before the village, you join Havasu Canyon. The lovely river that
flows in that canyon has created a verdant and riparian canyon bottom in sharp
contrast to the earlier trail setting. From here on to the Colorado River, Havasu
View from Havasupai Hilltop.
18
Canyon is beautiful, its sculpted red sandstone walls contrasting with the green-
ery in the canyon bottom and the blue-green waters of the lovely river that flows
through it. Just beyond the village there are some of the loveliest waterfalls to
be found anywhere in the world and the hike is worth it just for the opportunity
to experience Navaho Falls, Havasu Falls, Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls.
But this hike has other marvelous facets for it provides a window into the
proud and surviving culture of the Havasupai, the “people of the blue-green wa-
ters”. The village of Supai is home to about 450, the majority of the Havasupai
people. They have lived in the Grand Canyon for many hundreds of years and
the isolated community of Supai remains the center of their world. In ancient
times during the spring and summer they would live in the canyon where they
would tend to their gardens. In fall and winter they would move up to the
plateau for hunting and gathering. When the US government created the Hava-
supai Indian Reservation in 1882, it
confined the tribe to a tiny area around
the village denying them their range lands on the plateau. Fortunately this was
corrected in 1975 when Congress returned nearly two hundred thousand acres
to the tribe forming the current Havasupai Indian Reservation. The Havasupai
are also proud of their native tongue that was transcribed to written form about
1980.
The village of Supai is situated where Havasu Canyon briefly broadens and
allows extensive farming. But the red walls of Supai Sandstone still tower over
the village providing security and shelter. Two columns that protrude above
the western wall are called Wii’igliva and are considered male and female figures
that protect the Havasupai people. The village itself is unique in the United
States, being isolated and therefore insulated from the outside world. There are
Left: Havasu Falls. Right: Mooney Falls.
19
no motor vehicles, no gasoline fumes, no asphalt roads and very little concrete.
The pace of life is gentle and rural; horses and dogs are everywhere. The wooden
homes are spread out over the available land, individual plots being defined by
trees and wooden and barbed wire fences. There are two small stores, a school,
achurch,apostofficeandahealthclinic. Offtoonesideisalodgefortourists
though it is usually booked up for months ahead. One has the impression of a
proud people who have had some success in maintaining their culture and way
of life by partially isolating themselves from the outside world.
Trailhead
From a junction on historic route US66 about 7 mi east of Peach Springs,
Arizona, turn onto Indian State Secondary Road 18 and drive 62 mi north-
east to the end of the road at the Hualapai Hilltop parking area (36
o
9.59’N
112
o
42.58’W). Note that there are no services anywhere along this road. It
is however a good road across the mesa-top flatlands of the Havasupai Indian
Reservation. Watch for the open range cattle and for the antelope that frequent
these grasslands. Near the end the road drops down a little way before coming
to the top of a shear 1000ft cliff, the upper rim of the Grand Canyon of the
Colorado. Park here in the Hualapai Hilltop amidst the horses of the extensive
pack station and beside the small heliport.
Before setting off, check to ensure that you have everything you need for a
three day back packing trip. Some groceries and drinks are available in the Supai
village store but you will need to bring everything else with you. Open fires are
not permitted so you will need a stove if you plan to cook. The campground
has a single treated water supply but few other amenities. Check the weather
forecast before you set out since it may be unnecessary to bring a tent.
Hike
From the end of the parking area (36
o
9.59’N 112
o
42.58’W and elevation
5200ft) the trail drops dramatically down the Coconino sandstone precipice via
a series of switch backs cut into the cliff. After just 1 mi it has descended 1000ft
to the dry wash in the bottom of Hualapai Canyon. For the next 5.5 mi the
trail follows the gently sloping wash as the canyon drops down through the red
layers of Supai sandstone. Several times you may hear the percussive sound of
approaching hoof beats from the pack mule teams galloping downhill or trudging
uphill. Then it is time to stand to the side and let them past. As the sculpted
red walls grow the shade available increases, providing some comfortable rest
stops under the overhangs. Near the end of Hualapai Canyon there are some
small springs. Shortly thereafter at 3250ft, 6.5 mi and 2hr 20min from the
hilltop, you come to the end of Hualapai Canyon at its junction with Havasu
Canyon. Here the nature of the canyon bottom changes for just upstream of
the confluence in Havasu Canyon, a gushing river emerges from the ground at
Havasu Springs. This river irrigates the canyon bottom and allows a profusion
of desert plants and trees. Please note that Havasu Springs, Havasu Canyon
20
upstream of the confluence and, indeed, all Havasupai land aside from the main
trail described here is regarded as private by the Havasupai people and should
not be trespassed upon.
Turning downstream beside the river, the trail from here on is in the welcome
shade of willow, tamarisk and cottonwood trees. It is just 1.5mi from the co
nflu-
ence to the Havasupai village of Supai (el
evation 3205ft) that you should reach
3hrs and 8mi from the hilltop trailhead. In the center of the village (36
o
14.24’N
112
o
41.36’W) is a tourist office, right beside the small area that serves as the
helicopter landing field. All campers must register at the tourist office ($20
entrance fee and $20 camping fee per person) where you can also get a hiking
map and information on other services.
Having obtained your permit, you may then proceed on through the v
illage
following the trail as the canyon narrows again and begins to drop. Following
the main path (there many braided paths) to the right of the river you will pass
a place where there is a steep unstable bank with many warning signs. Here,
off on the left side, you will see Navaho Falls through the trees. You can get
closer to those pretty falls by working your way upstream from below. Shortly
thereafter there is a sign to the Havasu Campground and the trail descends to
and then crosses the river by two wooden bridges. Just beyond those bridges you
will arrive at the top of the spectacular Havasu Falls (36
o
15.31’N 112
o
41.90’W
and elevation 3010ft) about 40min and 2mi from the village. This magnificent
waterfall plunges about 100ft into a crystal blue-green pool. It is a beautiful
place that alone is worth the hike down from the hilltop. The trail descends
steeply to the left of the falls and there is a trail to the edge of the pool where
a swim is more than welcome on a hot day.
Left: Descending beside Mooney Falls. Right: Beaver Falls.
21
The campground (elevation 2840ft) is just downstream of Havasu Falls and
consists of many well-shaded sites (tables) stretched out along both sides of
the river in a narrow part of the canyon with towering red sandstone walls.
Many of the sites lie along the stream banks. However there is only one purified
water faucet along the west wall of the canyon and you should be careful to use
only this; though the river appears clean it is downstream of the village and is
probably unsafe to drink. It takes less than 4hrs to reach the campground from
Hualapai Hilltop, a distance of 10mi.
From the campground, there is a beautiful hike along the trail that continues
downstream to Mooney Falls, Beaver Falls and, eventually, to the Colorado
River. Decide for yourself how far you wish to go before turning around. From
Havasu Falls it is 1mi through the drawn-out campground to the top of the
awesome Mooney Falls, some 200ft of free-falling water plunging into another
blue-green pool. The downclimb consists of several small tunnels and platforms
cut from the travertine rock followed by steep steps and ladders with chains.
Though straightforward, extra care must be taken when the rock is wet. At the
bottom there is a marvelous view of the falls and the plunge pool.
From the bottom of Mooney Falls (36
o
15.79’N 112
o
42.56’W and elevation
2490ft, 30min from the Havasu Campground) the trail, now less used, follows
along the left bank of the river as the vertical, red-walled canyon proceeds north
on its way to the Colorado River. About 10min from Mooney Falls, you come
to the first river crossing that is usually thigh-deep or less. Just a few minutes
later you cross back to the left bank and then, just before Beaver Falls, you
again cross to the right side. A very short distance beyond this third crossing
the canyon becomes quite narrow and you must climb a short way up onto a
bluff on the right side. On top of this bluff there are several augmented stone
shelters in the cliff at ground level, whose purpose is unclear. Beaver Falls are
below this bluff to the left but to get a good view of these smaller but very
photogenic cascades you should find a steep down climbing route to a point just
downstream of the falls. Note that Beaver Falls (36
o
16.89’N 112
o
43.79’W and
elevation 2350ft) are 3mi and 1hr 30min downstream of Havasu Falls (or 13mi
from Hualapai Hilltop). Note also that a large tributary, Beaver Canyon, joins
Havasu Canyon just downstream of Beaver Falls. The author turned around at
Beaver Falls but the trail continues another 4mi to the Colorado River at the
Havasu Rapids (36
o
18.47’N 112
o
45.79’W and elevation 1750ft). From Beaver
Falls it should take about 2hr to hike back up to the village and another 4hr to
get back up to Hualapai Hilltop (36
o
9.59’N 112
o
42.58’W). While it is possible
to complete the hike comfortably in two days, most people will want to take
three.
22
Map of first part of Havasu Canyon Hike
23